HOSHINOYA Okinawa

Central Okinawa Island is vibrant in both appearance and feel— a result of the many resort hotels that operate in the area. But as you arrive in Yomitan, the atmosphere dramatically changes. Houses and fields of sugarcane and chrysanthemums line the quiet, narrow village roads, with only farmers entering and leaving the scenery—a view into the island's pastoral past. The sugarcane rustles in the wind, and you detect a hint of salt in the air. The ocean must be nearby. Eventually, the ocean appears and you take in its rich blue hues—different from those of the sky above—along with its endless, ornate coastline.

A tall modernist wall appears before you, winding north and south along the coastline. It is a spectacular structure that recalls the fortification of ancient castles known as gusuku, which once occupied the Ryukyu Islands, of which Okinawa is the largest. You walk inside and are greeted by an idyllic scene of herb and vegetable gardens lined by tropical plants and trees. Indigenous trees border the gardens, providing shade. Only the sound of waves crashing—and, sometimes, conversation—break the serenity protected by the gusuku.

You walk through the gardens until you see the winding line of guest villas and two-floor guest buildings standing along the coast—and, beyond them, the ocean you glimpsed earlier. You slide open the glass doors of your room and find yourself in an indoor patio, furnished with a long table fitted with a kitchen counter. At the other end is another set of glass doors, which open up to the balcony—so close to the ocean that it seems to hover right over it. A rush of ocean air blows past you; you turn around just in time to see the trees outside the front door sway. Here, you are always connected to the sea.

Dining and Drinking
at Your Own Pace

You admire the lustrous black of the patio's long table, formed from a single piece of carbonized wood. You sit down with a bottle of local craft beer you bought earlier. One sip, and you're instantly refreshed. The dinner you ordered at check-in arrives—ready to bake in the patio's oven at any time. You're not hungry yet, but you figure if you start cooking now, it will be ready at the perfect time.

As the sun begins to set, a veil of orange light shrouds the Okinawan dye art decorating the bedroom wall. With drink in hand, you walk out onto the balcony and sink into the sofa to watch the last vestiges of daylight. The golden sky and ocean glitter brightly before your eyes and then, in the blink of an eye, the light vanishes below the horizon. The night arrives and begins to envelop the sky.

A New Way of
Okinawan Life

The rhythmic crashing of the waves lulls you to sleep and then, in the morning, rouses you awake. You feel refreshed. Guided by the morning light, you leave your room to take a walk. As you pass by the dojo, you hear the chanting of martial arts training and the patter of feet on floorboards. Perhaps, you will attend a session tomorrow. The premises stretch far down the coast, the scenery constantly changing: acerola cherries, palm trees, bougainvillea, papayas. Then, the pool comes into view. The walk has made you a little sweaty, and you are tempted to jump in for a swim. Why not? How you spend your time is up to you.