DINING

The attraction of Kyoto cuisine is not that it uses unusual ingredients, but that it uses all ingredients. As Japan's ancient capital, Kyoto was once where ingredients were gathered from all across the country. Chefs would compete to see who could prepare the best dishes using every ingredient at their disposal. My approach is similar, but I am greatly helped by the producers themselves. For example, I once prepared a foie gras from a type of yam, based on an observation by the farmer that its smooth texture lent itself to a wide variety of dishes. The resulting dish surprised guests--it looked Western, but had a distinctly Japanese flavor. When chefs run out of ideas, they tend to add superfluous elements that diminish the qualities of the ingredients--it isn't Kyoto cuisine anymore. This is why I value the input of farmers, and why I strive to prepare all ingredients in ways that bring out their flavors, whether via seasonings or presentation. My research into ingredients never ends.

Meals that Convey Seasons

HOSHINOYA Kyoto is a place that is defined by the seasons. I pay homage to this concept in my cuisine by creating tiny seasonal moments in each dish. For example, one image associated with the rainy season in June is that of a snail crawling across a hydrangea plant in full bloom. So, I might decide to include an escargot dish in the June menu. In July, I might include a sweet rice cake like the ones handed out to ward off bad luck, during Kyoto's famous Gion Festival. To this seasonal concept, I add a dash of Western essence to offer our Japanese guests a unique twist on Kyoto cuisine, while also providing a hint of familiarity to overseas guests experiencing Kyoto cuisine for the first time.